You can’t expect to find fries and fried chicken on the streets of Pyongyang, and there’s a reason for that. Western-style fast food represents a kind of consumer culture long criticized by North Korea’s leadership. The country’s government strictly controls imports, limits exposure to Western brands, and promotes self-reliance under the Juche ideology, so American-style restaurants are virtually nonexistent. Ordinary citizens have limited access to foreign goods, and foods like burgers and fries are seen as symbols of capitalist excess rather than everyday food.
Even so, there is one establishment known as Samtaesong that is said to have political backing from Kim Kyong Hui, the aunt of Kim Jong Un. It’s essentially a homegrown version of McDonald’s that avoids the overt Western branding but serves a similar menu, including fried chicken, fries, and burgers described as “minced beef and bread.”
So, how does North Korea offer a carefully managed glimpse of global culture without undermining state ideology?
A Political Appetite
When Samtaesong first opened in 2009, the idea of a hamburger in Pyongyang drew disbelief abroad. The restaurant was the product of a joint venture between Singaporean businessmen and a North Korean state enterprise.
Behind that deal was Patrick Soh, a Singaporean entrepreneur who ran a small Waffletown USA franchise. He helped launch the project after being approached by officials who wanted to introduce something resembling American fast food but without the American name. The menu steered clear of English words and Western imagery and instead replaced them with neutral descriptions approved by the state.
Kim Kyong Hui’s involvement reportedly helped the restaurant secure its footing in the capital, where business ventures are closely tied to political networks. Her position as the daughter of Kim Il Sung and sister of Kim Jong Il made her one of the most powerful women in North Korea. Through Samtaesong, she helped shape what Pyongyang’s leadership calls “modern socialist consumerism,” where small hints of global influence coexist with the illusion of self-sufficiency.
Fast Food, Slow Service
The restaurant’s setup has counters, combo meals, and a menu that wouldn’t look out of place in a mall food court. However, the service is far from fast. Orders can take up to half an hour, and many dishes are cooked only after they’re requested.
Locals consider the experience novel. Eating with hands, for instance, isn’t customary in North Korea, yet middle-class diners and students from Kim Il Sung University have gradually warmed to the practice.
A typical combo of a burger, fries, and a drink costs about five dollars, which makes it a treat for the privileged rather than a neighborhood staple. Foreigners staying at hotels or touring Pyongyang often stop by, while locals who can afford it enjoy the rare chance to taste something Western without leaving their city.
The Taste of Controlled Modernity
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Samtaesong’s burgers are smaller and milder than their American equivalents. They are often topped with a fried egg or served alongside kimchi instead of coleslaw. Some branches even sell beer. The chain now runs several outlets across the capital, including near the Chinese Embassy, inside Kaeson Youth Park, and at the Chongnyon Hotel on Kwangbok Street.
Samtaesong may never match the speed or global reach of McDonald’s, but within North Korea’s borders, it has managed to be a subtle image of progress and openness.